Eggplants in a state of melting lusciousness, tender potatoes, and flavourful meatballs, all braised together in a bath of light, silky tomato sauce; this is Tepsi Baytinijan, the Iraqi comfort food dish.
This month in our 'Eat the World' Recipe Challenge, we visit Iraq, the country that has arisen from the ancient lands of Babylonia and Mesopotamia, nestled on the fertile lands between the Tigris and Euphrates rivers. It includes a variety of landscapes, from parts of the Zagros mountain range to the Syrian Desert, and a small portion of coastline in the Persian Gulf.
'Cradle of Civilization'. This is the term commonly given to Iraq. The political unrest currently associated with modern day Iraq is but a small blip in its rich and lengthy history. This ancient culture is home to the earliest known civilization, the Sumerians, as well as the Babylonian, Akkadian, and Assyrian civilizations (which go as far back as 30,000 B.C.). Iraq boasts the creation of the world's first writing system (4000 B.C.) and the actual first recorded history of mankind. The writings of the highly advanced Sumerian civilization show evidence of the first studies in the fields of mathematics, astronomy, astrology, written law, medicine, organized religion, and the culinary arts. The Sumerians were the first peoples to organize themselves into cities and practice forms of organized government.
Of special interest to me and other nerdy 'foodies'; the first cookbooks in the world are attributed to ancient tablets found in ruins in Iraq. On them are recipes carved into the stone, for dishes prepared in the temples during religious festivals. (A couple of those tablets would sure look good on my cookbook shelves - just sayin'!)
The cuisine of Iraq is heavy on vegetables like eggplants (aubergines), tomatoes, zucchini (courgettes), okra, peppers, potatoes, onions, garlic, and chilis, and fruits like dates, raisins, apricots, figs, grapes, melons, pomegranates, and citrus fruits. It also includes abundant grains (especially bulgur) and legumes, and some meat; mostly chicken and lamb. Meals are generally served with rice (grown in southern Iraq).
The flavours in this traditional Iraqi comfort-food stew, Tepsi Baytinijan, are simple, yet rich and satisfying. The sum of its individual vegetables parts, layered in a casserole, tucked with meatballs, and subjected to a gentle oven braise, results in a lusciously satisfying final dish. The eggplant becomes silky and sweet, enveloping the tender potatoes, tomatoes, and savoury meatballs like a grandmother's warm hug. The main flavouring comes from onions and garlic, tamed into gentle, aromatic submission. Altogether it is one delicious dish, worth every minute of its preparation. Nothing fancy, but boy-oh-boy does it deliver on comforting flavour.
Tepsi Baytinijan (in Arabic, Tepsi = casserole or baking dish, Baytinijan = eggplant) is a great meal to prepare on a lazy Sunday winter afternoon; roasting or frying the eggplant, making the meatballs, and sautéing the onions takes a bit of time, but then you can pop it in the oven to do its thing and enjoy the bubbling casserole as a hearty family dinner. It makes for tasty weekday lunches if you can manage to squirrel away some leftovers, too.
Tepsi Baytinijan: Just Roast, Layer and Bake
Slice up some eggplants, brush them with oil, and roast until golden (or you can sauté them in a skillet in batches).
Then slice and sauté up some onions, brown the meatballs, and grab a few potatoes and tomatoes. Also, stir up a bit of tomato paste with lots of water.
Layer it all in a casserole dish, tucking the meatballs in the top and pouring the tomato sauce over it all.

Now it's ready for the oven.
Cover the dish and bake until the eggplant is silky and the potatoes are fork tender, and the whole thing has melded into one luscious dish of goodness. Uncover and finish baking until the top crisps up just a bit and the liquid in the pan thickens.
Serve with a mound of fluffy rice or warm flatbreads and a simple salad.
* * * * *

Tepsi Baytinijan: A Taste of Iraq
Ingredients
- 2 large eggplants/aubergines 2-2½ lbs/1-1.1kg total
- ½ cup (8 tablespoons/120ml) olive oil, divided
- 2 large onions
- 6 cloves garlic peeled and minced, divided
- 1 lb (450gms) ground beef or lamb
- ½ teaspoon ground cumin
- ½ teaspoon ground coriander
- 2 teaspoons fine sea salt divided
- 1 teaspoon pepper divided (preferably white pepper)
- 3 medium potatoes ~1 lb/450gms total
- 3 medium tomatoes ~¾lb/350gms total
- 4 tablespoons (¼ cup/60ml) tomato paste
- a sprinkle of ground cayenne pepper optional
- 2 cups (480ml) water
Instructions
- Preheat oven to 425°F (220°C).
- Slice the eggplants crosswise into ½ inch (1cm) slices. Roast them to prepare them for the dish. Alternately you can pan-fry them in batches in a skillet until they are golden brown on both sides. Plan to use about 6 tablespoons of the oil for the eggplants and divide it out accordingly (reserve 2 tablespoons for the onions and meatballs).
- Pour about 1 tablespoon of the olive oil into a large rimmed cookie sheet and brush it evenly around. Layer as many eggplant slices as can fit in a single layer (about half of them), and brush the tops lightly with some more of the olive oil.
- Bake for 10 to 15 minutes, until the tops of the slices are lightly browned, then flip the slices over and brush the tops lightly with some more oil. Bake for another 10 to 15 minutes until golden brown again. Remove the roasted eggplant slices to a bowl and repeat with the remaining eggplant slices. Set them aside (or refrigerate them if you've roasted them ahead to make the casserole the following day).
- While the eggplants are roasting, cut the onions into quarters and slice crosswise. Heat about 1 tablespoon of the oil in a skillet and cook the onions until golden brown, about 10 minutes. Add about ⅔ of the chopped garlic (4 cloves) and cook for 1 more minute. Scrape the onions into a bowl. Don't wash the skillet.
- Mix together the ground beef, the remaining ⅓ of the minced garlic (2 cloves), coriander, cumin, ½ teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper. Shape the mixture into 1" (2.5cm) meatballs. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil to the skillet the onions were cooked in, and brown the meatballs on all sides - they do not have to be cooked through. Set aside, saving any of the juices accumulated in the skillet.
- Stir together the tomato paste, water, cayenne (if using), and remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt and ½ teaspoon of pepper.
- Lower the oven temperature to 350°F (180°C).
- In a large deep casserole dish or baking dish, layer half of the onions, then half of the potatoes, then half of the eggplants, then half of the tomatoes. Repeat. Tuck the meatballs in all over the top, pushing aside any tomato or eggplant slices so the meatballs fit down in among them. Add any juices left in the bowls from the vegetables and meatballs. Pour the tomato sauce over the layered ingredients.
- Cover the baking dish tightly with foil or a lid. Bake for 40 minutes.
- Uncover the Tepsi Baytinijan and continue baking it for another 20-40 minutes, until the juices are bubbling all around the edges of the dish and you can feel that the potatoes are tender when pierced through with a knife.
- Remove from the oven and push down any crispy bits of eggplant into the juices in the dish to moisten them.
- Serve with rice or flatbread and a green salad.
- Serves 4 - 6. Leftovers reheat well.
Notes
Bel Hana Wel Shefa or 'bil-hanā' wa ash-shifā' (may you have your meal with gladness and health)!
Check out all the wonderful Iraqi dishes by fellow Eat the World members and share with #eattheworld. Click here to find out how to join and have fun exploring a country a month in the kitchen with us!
Culinary Adventures with Camilla: Hadgi Badah (Iraqi Cardamom Cookies)
Palatable Pastime: Maqluba (Upside Down Rice)
The Schizo Chef: Iraqi Parda Pulao
Amy’s Cooking Adventures: T’Bit (Iraqi Slow Cooked Chicken & Brown Rice)
Sneha’s Recipe: Potato Kubbi/Potato Chap
CulturEatz: Kahi with Gaymar Breakfast
Kitchen Frau: Tepsi Baytinijan (Meatball & Eggplant Dish)
Pandemonium Noshery: Iraqi Lamb Stew
A Day in the Life on the Farm: Tepsi Baytinijan
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Check out my past ‘Eat the World’ Recipe Challenge posts:
- Ireland: Dublin Coddle (A tasty Sausage and Potato Stew)
- Thailand: Shrimp Laksa (Khung)
- Kenya: Maharagwe with Ugali (Red Beans with Cornmeal Slice)
- Sweden: Swedish Meatballs with Cream Gravy
- New Zealand: Classic Pavlova
- France: Axoa d’Espelette (A Simple Stew from the Basque Country)
- Argentina: Red Chimichurri Sauce
- India: Kerala Upma (Fluffy, Kerala Style Breakfast Upma Recipe)
- Poland: Polish Honey Cake
- Ethiopia: Four Ethiopian Recipes for a Fantastic Feast
- England: Gluten Free Fish and Chips and Mushy Peas
- Georgia: Charkhlis Chogi (Beets with Sour Cherry Sauce)
- Mexico: Cochinita Pibil Tacos (Pit Barbecued Pig to Make in Your Oven)
- Cambodia: Noum Kong (Cambodian Rice Flour Doughnuts)
- Israel: Cucumber, Feta, and Watermelon Salad
- Finland: Lohikeitto (Creamy Salmon, Potato, and Dill Soup)
- Puerto Rico: Piña Colada Cocktail
- Egypt: Fava Beans and Feta
- Ukraine: Buckwheat Kasha with Beef
- Portugal: Tuna and Sardine Pâtés
- Christmas (Switzerland): Basler Leckerli Cookies
- Trinidad & Tobago: Peanut Butter Prunes










Wendy
I made this recipe as well. However I like the spices used in your recipe better. Mine only used salt and pepper.
Margaret
I think there's quite a variety of ways to make Tepsi. Most recipes I found used very little spices, too, but some even used sugar and vinegar to make it sweet and sour. I think anything goes, and the nice braise in the oven makes it all meld together into a delicious dish, no matter what spices you use!
Chef Mireille
That looks amazing and delicious - and I don't even like eggplant! However, this recipe looks so good I might be willing to try it in this presentation.
Margaret
Thanks so much! Eggplant really is one of those 'love-it-or-hate-it' foods, but the texture becomes so silky in this dish, I cant get enough of it. Happy cooking.😊🍆
Lucia
Wow - thank you! This looks amazing (well, pretty much every recipe you post does). As usual, can't wait to try it. Sort of reminds me of some of the recipes in my Lebanese cookbook. (It's a fantastic thing to use cinnamon and allspice in beef dishes!)
Hoping Spring is well on its way in your neighborhood, Margaret! 🙂
Margaret
You are so kind, Lucia! Thank you! I love that flavour of cinnamon with meat, too. It reminds me of a stew my Oma used to make with meat which you eat over cinnamon and raisin rice pudding. And I love it in moussaka! I want to learn to cook more dishes like that.
We are on our last days of a beautiful sailing holiday in Antigua - have to leave paradise and head back to the snow very soon😢🏝! I'm hoping spring won't be too long to wait for once we get back, but I'm afraid our northern climate is slower than that.